The Atacama Desert

Family at Salt Flats

Family at Salt Flats

Instead of Trick-or-Treating this Halloween we took a family vacation to the Atacama Desert in Northern Chile.  It is said to be the driest place in the world.  Our hotel, Explora Atacama,  offered many different hikes, horseback rides, bike rides, etc.

When we arrived at the Calama domestic airport, instead of going out through the jetway, the opened the stairs off the plane.  We had truly just landed in the middle of the desert.  The Santiago airport is rather impressive compared to the one in Calama.  I can’t imagine having the job to advertise for the Calama airport, “Welcome to the Calama not-so-international-airport, where you can fly to places like Santiago, Santiago, and Santiago.”  Really.  I looked at the departure board and there were no flights to anywhere but Santiago.

We got in a van with a Brazilian couple speaking Portugese and drove to our hotel which took about an hour. My dad tried to do a call on the trip to the hotel and got disconnected twelve times in seven minutes. There was obviously no cell reception in the desert.  Looking out the window, my mom said, “those mountains look like a bunch of volcanoes.”  We later found out that those mountains were a chain of volcanoes, and a few of them were active.(yikes!)

Once we got to the hotel, we departed on our first excursion.  The van took us to a small town.  We noticed that the roofs were only sticks and dried grass.  I guess it is because they don’t get any rain there so they don’t need a roof to keep the rain out.  Our guide said he wanted to show us some llamas.  He led us to a small door in the wall.  We opened the door and there were a few people standing with three llamas.  The baby one liked me.:)

llamas

Llamas in the small town on the way to the Salt Flats

Rocks? Sand? Nope! Actually, these rock-ish things are clumps of salt.

We got back in the van and the guide took us to the Salt Flats.  At first I thought it was a bunch of rocks.  I asked the guide why they were so weirdly shaped.  He explained that because the salt flats were so old the salt had formed itself in big shapes.  The salt flats, the largest in Chile, are home to the Las Flamencos National Reserve and hundreds of Flamingos.

The Gray Flamingo (a la izquierda) is a Baby.(if you don’t know what “a la izquierda” means, look it up.)

Our Guide Showing us the Salt Formations

The Sunset’s reflection on the mountains Was Beautiful

The next morning we set off on our second excursion to the Valle de Muerte.  Our guide said they called it the Valley of Death by accident.  The Frenchman who named it had meant to call it “Mars” after the planet but his accent on the Spanish was misunderstood and therefore “Muerte.”  This was my favorite excursion.  First we hiked up for about an hour.  My mom kept telling us to stay to the right of her because on the left was a giant cliff.

We got up to the top and the guide informed us that we were going to go down.  I wasn’t sure if he meant we were going to walk down the sand dune or if he meant that we had to hike all the way back.  Then he took off running down the sand dune.

Ready…..Set………

Go!

Our guide and me.

Running in the sand dunes was hard because of the elevation.  Atacama is at 7500 feet high which is even higher than Lake Tahoe where my grandparents live.

Start of the Hike

In the afternoon, we did the Cactus hike. It was a very different hike from any of the other hikes.  There were multiple times where we had to cross the river.  We also climbed over many rocks.

We found a lizard!  I like Lizards!

He is Blurry Here, But Isn’t He Cute!

We walked into a canyon and followed the river for about two hours.

Then we began to climb up out of the canyon.  Jack got ahead of most of the group on this hike.  He did really well.

Hiking Out of the Canyon

Jack  and our guide leading the pack on the hike

The next day was the official “Madie day” of the trip even though it was my dad’s birthday. In the morning we went horseback riding.

Getting Fit for my Helmet

Jack and Me on horses

Mom and Jack had gone back to the stables because Jack could barely breathe (he is allergic to horses). After a while of walking our guide explained to Dad and I how we could get our horses to trot. All we had to do is bounce up and down on our horses, giving it a little bit of a beat to trot to. It was really fun.

The next excursion we did was a mountain bike ride to a salty lake similar to the Dead Sea.  We could float in the water when we got there.  When we were deciding which excursion to do, and they suggested this one, we actually said that Jack wasn’t the strongest bike rider but they said he’d have no problem with it.  When we were getting ready to start biking the guide admitted that he didn’t have a bike small enough to fit Jack.  Jack ended up having to ride in the van.  When we began to ride, mom asked the guide how many kids did this excursion.  “Not very many” he replied.  We had a feeling this was not going to be an easy bike ride.  Biking in Atacama

The ride was 18 kilometers. We had no idea it would be that long.  It was really, really hard.  By the time we got to the salt lake, I was absolutely ready to pass out pooped.  But the swimming was fun, even though the salt really burned our sunburns.

The last excursion we did was probably the prettiest.  First we walked across a field of salt – very different from our first experience with salt flats.  

Valley Of the Moon

Valley of Moon

salt formations

When we reached the bottom of the canyon, the salt began to look less like salt and more like frosting on a cake or snow.  Our guide said we had to be very careful not to damage any of the salt so that the next people who came and did the hike could experience it like we did.

Okay, so sure I’m a little disappointed that we didn’t get to celebrate halloween, but the desert was even better!

Rio!

One of the great benefits to moving to Santiago was the opportunity to explore a different part of the world.  Now that John is part of the “Latam” office he had a conference in Rio de Janeiro that happened to coincide with my birthday.  My mom came to stay with the kids and John and I headed to Rio for 4 days.

Rio was amazing.  I was expecting a very dirty city with lots of crime but instead found an amazing exotic place.  We were fortunate to stay in a fabulous hotel, the Fasano Hotel was located right on Ipanema Beach.  The spot was great.  Each morning you could take a run along the beach and join the most eclectic array of people and watch as all the vendors set up for a busy day at the beach.

View from the rooftop of our Hotel

While in Rio we got the chance to go to a samba school where they work all year in anticipation of Carnival.  We visited the famous Mangueira Samba School.  Two of the dancers gave us lessons in the dance and then we got to decorate a headdress and watch a performance.  I can honestly say I’ve never seen anything quite like it.

John, our instructor and Henry and Liz learning how to Samba

I took a tour of downtown Rio.  While the tour was interesting, I’d probably stick to the beach if I came to visit again.  Some of the architecture was really stunning and it was fascinating to hear the history of how this city came to be.  Unfortunately time has seen many great buildings fade and new “modern” architecture replace the old.

Downtown Rio

We did have some fabulous meals in Rio.  One night we had dinner at Roberta Sudbrack.  The chef (for whom the restaurant is named) was the former private chef of the Brazilian President.  She has been named the best chef in Rio many times and her restaurant is included in the list of the top fifty restaurants in the world.  It was one of the best meals I have ever had.  The dessert was amazing (and I don’t even like dessert!).  With such great meals, my one regret is not being able to find the hole-in-the-wall place with great beans and rice.  Next time.

The highlight of the trip without a doubt was a trip to Christ the Redeemer.  I was nervous that it might be one of those iconic tourist destinations that can be incredibly disappointing.  It was the opposite.  One of the amazing things they do is make every visitor (even if you are in a tour group) take a sponsored bus to the top where the statue is located.  This prevents all the cheap souvenir salesman from overwhelming the place.  Instead, it is this stoic, peaceful place at the top of the largest urban rainforest in the world.  It was truly spectacular.

Under the statue is this area to walk out with 180 degree views of Rio.

Before we left Rio, we spent the morning on the beach.  There is an entire industry surrounding the beach in Rio.  Vendors of all kinds, bathing suits, food, suntan oil, etc create this background noise and a constant hum to the experience.

Oh, and it is not a stereotype that Brazilian beaches are filled with scantally-clad people.  If you were 99 or 19 you were wearing a string bikini and most suits didn’t appropriately over all the right spots. Even the men revealed as much as possible.  It made me smile when I think of how older women in the states move on to a swim suit with a skirt 🙂  Brazilians must look at Americans and think we have serious issues.

I am anxious to go back to Rio.  It is really a magical place.  That said, in talking with people, they have done a ton very recently to clean up the city and decrease crime.  The very poor areas of Rio, the favelas, can been seen from anywhere.  According to Wikipedia, nearly 12 million people live in favelas in Brazil.  With Brazil hosting the 2012 World Cup and the 2016 Summer Olympic Games, more work is being done by the government to improve these areas.  I’m sure you could hear different perspectives on how successful the efforts have been, but the majority of residents told me things have improved dramatically.  I found a very interesting article about this in National Geographic Magazine.  A complicated issue for sure.